Omataseshimashita!

I’ve reached Tottori. It’s been 14 days on the road already, and I’ve hardly noticed. The hardest part of travelling was back in Kumamoto and Fukuoka, when I knew it would be oh so easy to return to Beppu and known safety. After Fukuoka I had a goal to motivate me for a while; to visit Kate in Hagi. After Hagi all I had to do was keep moving on, and so have I done, a small step at a time.

Getting to Tottori was great. Not that it’s all that fantastic in itself, but there is life here, open stores, people in the restaurants, other people hurrying about their business. Life bustling all around. I liked Matsue, my last stop before Tottori, but coming here I realize that Matsue too had the “Ghost Town feeling” I met wherever I stopped along my way since Shimonoseki. In most of the cases I could sense the dormant charm of the place, but being there in winter it was obvious to me that I was there outside of the seasons as well. Many of these places were quiet and desolate, no people in the streets, few (if any) open shops and restaurants, and those only around the obvious spots of activity; main streets and tourist attractions –or tourist attractions’ bus parking lots in the case of Tsuwano (the only lively spot was a noodle place, situated opposite the bus parking lot and catering mainly to bus-tourists). Most of the town may be closed, but the gift shop by the tourist bus’ parking lot is always open (in my experience anyway).

The weather may have helped to chase away the Ghost Town feeling, but the sun was shining in Matsue too, and here in Tottori it seemed to have been bustling before the weather changed as well. The sun was shining and there was a non-freezing breeze in the air; I could walk around without gloves and earmuffs and still be comfortable. Of course, having had a warm day (first day of spring?) don’t stop my hotel room from being freezing cold –despite the gas heater.

I took advantage of the weather and took the bus out to the Sakyu – the great sand dunes of Tottori – and had fun walking in the dunes and along the beach, taking pictures of the dunes, footprints in the sand, the waves and odd objects that had drifted in to the beach; garbage that, to me, had a certain beauty in the sand and sunlight.

After returning to the hotel I’ve been relaxing in my room, catching up on my writing and accounting. I even forgot to go to the Internet Café, but at least I’ll be prepared when I finally get to one.

Art Museum Day

Today’s plan was to do the Adachi Art Museum in Yasugi, and then return to Matsue and do the Shimane Prefectural Art Museum, see the sun set over the lake and then return to the Ryokan before 19:00 so the Terazuyas could enjoy an evening in the onsen. I’m not sure if they invited me or not, but I’m too tired to go, even though it’s not even 4 o’clock yet.

I managed to do both the museums at super speed, although it was not intended. Getting to the Adachi museum from Matsue I had to take the train 40 minutes, and then 20 minutes with the museum’s shuttle bus from Yasugi station to the museum. It doesn’t sound so bad, until I add that train and bus doesn’t always correspond. Getting to the museum I had to wait at Yasugi station for 45 minutes, so I decided that I didn’t want to do that on my way back. I was almost through the whole Adachi museum when I saw there would be a perfect correspondence with a return train to Matsue –in 20 minutes. This was abut 2 hours earlier than I had planned to leave, but my options were; hanging about the museum which I had already seen, buying a 1000yen coffee at the museum café, finishing the museum at a slower pace and taking a later bus to Yasugi just to wait at the station once more. Neither appealed to me, so I walked through the rest of the exhibition, skimmed the souvenir shop and jumped on the bus –just in time.

The museum itself was wonderful, and I would have liked to spend a day there, perhaps in the company of another western “Art and Orient” lover, and if my budget would allow me to stop in the museum café. The Adachi Museum is a combined museum and Japanese garden, top ranked among the best gardens in Japan (“…and perhaps the World!” they boast).

The Shimane Prefectural Art Museum was a bit of a disappointment, mostly because there was only one exhibition open, and it was quite small. I spent perhaps half an hour at the museum before heading back to the Ryokan around 3 – 3:30, and I’ve spent the rest of the day in my room relaxing, sorting through my growing collection of tourist information, throwing out what I no longer need, and then preparing packing my backpack once more. It was too cold and cloudy today so I skipped watching the sun set; I think it is an activity better left for more summery days. So, next time around – I hope.

Catching up on writing!

Way to long too long without writing; it’s getting hard to catch up. I decided to leave the last parts, of the stories from Hagi and Yamaguchi with Obaasan, just as the keywords I wrote down. Writing all that would take too much time when I have newer memories to write down while they are, at least seemingly, fresh.

Since I wrote last I’ve had a daytrip from Yamaguchi to Akiyashi-dai, left Yamaguchi, visited Tsuwano, spent a night in Masuda, travelled to Ooda and seen the sights of Iwami-Ginza and Nima before picking up my luggage back in Ooda and then continued on to Matsue; from where I had a daytrip to Izumo-taishi today. There are plenty of reasons for not having time or energy to write, but they can be summed up to “I’ve been busy”.

2008-02-15: Akiyoshi-do
Getting to Akiyoshi-dai from Yamaguchi was no problem, there’s a direct bus from Yamaguchi station to Akiyoshi-do – the great limestone cave at the plateau Akiyoshi-dai. (To avoid confusion: I visited the cave Akiyoshi-do, which is at the Akiyashi-dai plateau.) Going up the hills and into the mountains seemed like a bad idea considering the cold and my not-so-warm clothes, but I’d made up my mind, and had nothing better to do.

The bus-ride up to Akiyoshi-dai showed me a hilly Japanese countryside with scattered hamlets here and there in the valleys. As the bus-ride took us higher up there were snow-clad villages and rice-terraces, but up on the plateau by Akiyoshi-do the snow was gone, and it was slightly warmer than down in Yamaguchi.

Akiyoshi-do is obviously a season attraction. The cave is open year-round, but the town around it had gone into hibernation, and was little more than a ghost-town. There were some souvenir shops and restaurants open; but only some of the small places along the road leading to the cave.

There’s not really any point in describing the cave itself, it’s a cave with interesting colours and stone formations, but describing it won’t count for much unless you can see it, so I’ll post some pictures from the cave at some later point. I had a blast walking through the cave and play with camera angles and light challenges. Being in a cave it was (of course) dimly lit, so I had quite a challenge figuring out how to take the best possible pictures. I also made a game out of trying to see figures in the stone formations, and then photograph them. The question I whether I will be able to recognise the same shapes and figures when I see just the picture of them…

2008-02-16 Tsuwano
Scribbles in Traveller's Notebook, and pictures online.

2008-02-17 Oda, Iwami-Ginzan (Omori), Nima, Arriving in Matsue
(Scribbles in the Traveller's Notebook too -I might post some excerpts later, I might forget it

completely.)

I was on my way from Masuda to Matsue, but stopped underway in Oda, Iwami-Ginzan and Nima to see the sights while I was in the area. Oda was nothing to me but a helpful tourist information clerk, a useful coin locker, and a bus stop.

Bus ride to Iwami-Ginzan; me worrying about having taken the wrong bus and what to do if I did etc, and calming myself down; nothing special.

I couldn’t go to the Iwami-Ginzan silver mine itself, so I wandered around Oomori and saw the sights there. There was no snow there when I came, but 15 min after I came snow fell heavily.

(Scribbles in the Traveller’s Notebook from the café).

After enjoying the café I had to hurry through the rest of my itinerary to be sure to reach my bus in time, but in the cold I was glad to keep moving. I had a wonderful time even though I was “surprised” by the snow; it was a beautiful sight, and it reminded me of winters back home (well, the good ones at least). I put ten-ten on the “surprised” because I didn’t see it coming, but it was cold and snowy further south as well, so I was dressed to stand the cold.

From Iwami-Ginzan (Omori) I took the bus to Nima where I wanted to see the sand museum. That’s right people; it is a museum for sand. I reached the museum just in time for the last admission, and walked around the exhibitions twice before closing time 30 min later. Not the biggest museum I’ve seen. Perhaps not so surprising that they had a lot of hour-glasses, and sand-art “paintings”, but there were some other paintings as well, some photographs from famous places in the prefecture, a video room and 2 educational rooms for the geology of Japan for those that are good enough in Japanese to understand it all. I wasn’t interested in the last parts. One of the interesting things they do have is the world’s largest hour-glass, which is turned at midnight every New Year’s Eve, and has enough grains of sand to last until the exact same time the next year.

Outside the museum, waiting for trains, and finally, finally arriving in Matsue – picked up by the ryokan-family, and treated to an obento while chattering with the family for a while before retreating to my room. (Freezing night, I tried sleeping without the heater (bad idea!); had to turn it on at 4:30 because my legs were cramped.)

2008-02-18 Izumo-taisha
I’ve walked at least 4km today, just in Izuma-taisha. More later. Oyasumi.

Yamaguchi - Obaasan and Me

A wonderful eventful day in Yamaguchi

Wow, I’m so tired I don’t know where to start writing. Well, top of the document, obviously, but… this has been my most eventful day so far, it even tops yesterday.

I planned to take the main sights of Yamaguchi by foot (or bus if necessary), so the first stop was the tourist office at Yamaguchi Station. I wasn’t able to figure out the bus routes from the nearby bust stop so I decided to walk from the hostel. It took me about 50 minutes. I was glad the weather was nice, though it was a bit on the cold side. (I’ve been told by several people that his is the coldest week, or the coldest part of winter. Not too happy about travelling towards the colder areas at this time… Think I’ll have to buy a new sweater at this pace.)

At the tourist office I had a nice conversation with the lady at the information desk and I got a big collection of tourist brochures and helpful info, and, to my surprise, a souvenir from the people at the office! They gave me a small Hagiyaki ceramic cup, a special Japanese ceramic style that Hagi is famous for. I don’t know exactly why they decided to give it to me, but I guess I was different from the usual tourists, and spoke a higher level of Japanese (or any Japanese at all) than they expected me to. I must have given a positive impression at least. :)

After sorting through all the brochures I decided to go to the nearest tourist attraction and start there, walking from one tourist attraction to the next until I’d have enough. I never got that far; as I walked up the Ekidori (Yamaguchi main street from the station) I accidentally fell into pace with an elderly lady walking beside her bicycle. She asked me (in Japanese, of course) if I was sightseeing, and when I replied yes (going to sightsee anyway) we soon had a (halting) conversation.

After a couple of blocks the Obaasan (nickname for elderly women, meaning “Grandma”) asked if I wanted to join her for a cup of coffee at a nearby café. Seeing this unique opportunity to practice Japanese, and socializing with the locals at the same time, I was glad to accept; and ended up being treated to coffee and a piece of cake. Our conversation somehow absorbed the lady at the table next to us for a while, and a little later Obaasan’s friend came along too, an elderly lady named Nakamura-san. The original Lady-at-the-next-table changed to a younger woman, but she too was included momentarily before we left. “We” were: me, Obaasan and Nakamura-san.

They joined me for sightseeing, and then it gradually became them showing me the sights and paying all my entrance fees etc. I tried to protest, but Obaasan just smiled and pushed my hand away. When the ladies became tired Nakamura-san’s car magically appeared from somewhere and they drove me around to 2-3 other sights, treated me to Akizaki (or Akisaki) – a traditional Japanese winter drink; a hot, white, thick, sweet drink, complete with a dash of alcohol. And afterwards they insisted upon driving me back to the hostel.

Wow, and I haven’t even started on the sights! It was so amazing to experience the local attractions in the company of these local old women. Obaasan had adopted me quite quick, although I didn’t realise it until a long while afterwards. She kept saying I was like “mago”, but I didn’t know it meant “grandchild” until I looked it up. By that time Obaasan had used it several times. The ladies including the first “table-next-to-ours-lady” and the lady serving the Akasaki, kept saying I was beautiful. I do believe most of it is because I’m tall (compared to Japanese), blond (all the black-haired Asians want lighter hair), fair-skinned (which is the ideal) and blue-eyed (unusual & exotic). I think I halfway embarrassed the Akasaki-lady by saying “thank you”, she obviously didn’t expect me to understand a word. And then suddenly we had another conversation going (or perhaps the same one, just once more…).

Outside the Akasaki-shop (or shed with benches) we passed a small group of teenagers, and when one of the boys tripped while staring at me Obaasan snickered and said “He’s staring because you’re beautiful!” I had to contradict her; I think he stared because I’m a foreigner. It isn’t unusual that people stare at me, ant not that weird either, given that I’m tall and blond and wearing my strikingly bright red jacket –which is very at odds with the Japanese fashion.

I still haven’t described the sights, but if I don’t ever get to it I hope the pictures will say it all.

Now it’s time for bed, I’ve got a long day tomorrow as well, going to Akiyoshi, sightseeing and returning to Yamaguchi. Hope I’ll be able to realise this plan though. I have to get better at following my plans thorough to the end. Or in many cases; at least start them!

Oyasumi. Obaasan, arigatou!
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*omiyage postkort, Nakamura-san’s bil med barnesikring, vandring etter retur til hostellet.
Xavier Memorial Church, 5-etasjes Pagoda, Gammel restaurant nå museum (se etter utklipp blant brosjyrene),

The rail from Shimonoseki, with Kate in Hagi, and arrival Yamaguchi.

First when I checked out from my hotel this morning I looked out the window. Snow, not falling, but thrown violently around in the wind. I appreciated the short walk to the station, but not having to wait for my train in the cold. There were people shoving snow off the platforms as I got up there. (yes up! For those that haven’t seen a Japanese railway station I can tell you that most of them have ticket offices and ticket machines and timetables etc. on ground floor, and then the platforms and the rails themselves one floor up, or more, from there.)

I had decided to take the longer train ride to Hagi in favour of the view, rather than taking the (possibly) fastest route inland. After a while I managed to get a seat in the right direction to fully enjoy the view that was not completely obscured by heavy snow or sleet clouds and the amounts of such stuff in free falling towards the ground. It was cloudy ad snowy most of the way along the coast, with the occasional surprise of sun and blue sky shining through the clouds for a short while.

It was a very nice ride along a very, very, local line. When there was people on the train I was people-watching. I was able to observe the locals commuting; mostly high school kids half sleeping on the train on their way to school, and less sleepy-looking middle aged men going to work. The flow of people came and went like tidal waves, leaving the two carriages almost deserted in between the busier stations. I was the only one travelling as far as Hagi, but I was never completely alone in the train. ((picture!))

When there weren’t any people on board I observed (what was visible of) the view. I saw the smallest train station I’ve ever seen; it had a short stretch of cement platform, a unisex toilet with 3 walls and no door, and a 3-walled waiting hall big enough only to squeeze in 3 people, with one of them standing in the doorway –which made out the 4th wall. There were miniature shrines accessible from no visible path, roadside Kannon (statue / goddess of mercy) and a surprising number of cemeteries in remote and inaccessible places. (In many cases I can see why they chose the place, but not how they use it; how do they get the heavy gravestones up there?)

I enjoyed most of the journey, with the exception of the 1hr 42 min waiting time at Nagatoshi station, where I had to change trains. The first thing I did was digging out a warmer sweater from my backpack, put on my beanie (hat/cap/lue/whatever) and gloves. This waiting hall had more than 3 walls, but one of them was still open directly to the platform area. At 11:11 I was glad to finally settle down in the warm and cosy 1-car train to Hagi.

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Hagi with Kate
Waiting, Kate’s apartment, food, wandering around Hagi, Hina doll exhibition, Hagiyaki (also mentioned in the Yamaguchi text), Hagi-latte w/mikan, purikura, bus terminal and bus ride to Yamaguchi.

Kate @ the 1# place to B!

Arrival Yamaguchi
Taxi-Youth hostel